Ljubuški, located along the Trebižat River, is one of Herzegovina’s most beautiful natural gems. The river itself creates some of the most attractive waterfalls in Bosnia and Herzegovina, particularly Kravica and Koćuša, which are must-visit spots for nature lovers and fans of active recreation.
The city stands out for its rich cultural and historical heritage, reflecting the continuity of life through nearly all periods of human history. From the remains of the Roman military camp Gračine, to the Humac Tablet—one of the oldest written monuments of Croatian literacy—to the medieval Old Town of Ljubuški and numerous necropolises with stećci (medieval tombstones), Ljubuški is a place of strong identity and deep roots.
Surrounded by fertile landscapes and known as a healthy gastronomic oasis, Ljubuški today combines natural beauty, cultural heritage, and hospitality. As part of the Tour of Bosnia and Herzegovinaroute, Ljubuški offers a unique cycling experience through a landscape where sport naturally meets history and authentic Herzegovinian ambiance.
History of Ljubuški
According to local tradition, Duke Stjepan Vukčić Kosača began building the town of Ljubuški in honor of his wife Ljubuša, after whom, legend says, the town was named. In written sources, the city is first mentioned in 1435 under the name “Lubussa.” It was not until the second half of the 19th century that Ljubuški appeared on maps with its current name. More recently, older documents discovered in the Dubrovnik archives mention a church and monastery in Ljubuški on February 15, 1435.
The Ljubuški area, as evidenced by numerous historical remains, was a highly desirable place for settlement from ancient times. The first known inhabitants were the Illyrians—Daorsoni/Daorsi—who settled in the Trebižat valley. They were later displaced by the warlike Ardijejci and Delmati, who briefly settled in western Ljubuški. Numerous remains indicate a vibrant and active life during the Illyrian period. Stone mounds, of which there are over a thousand in Ljubuški, primarily served as tombs for prominent members of Illyrian clans. The fall of the Illyrian tribes and the arrival of the Romans radically changed the ethnological, topographical, and economic landscape. Evidence of this includes two Roman-era settlements: Bigeste (in Radišići and Humac) and Pagus Scunasticus (likely at Mostarska Vrata). Bigeste was initially a rest station, later a Roman military camp, with remains excavated at Gračine in Humac. Pagus Scunasticus was a veteran settlement for retired Roman soldiers, as evidenced by two inscribed stone plaques found at Zorbinovac. Numerous stone inscriptions, mostly tombstones related to military units, are preserved in the Franciscan Museum in Humac. After the Romans, Croats arrived in the 7th century. Due to scarce remains from this period, it appears that the Ljubuški area experienced economic and cultural decline.
One of the few and most significant remnants is the famous Humac Tablet, an inscription in Old Croatian Cyrillic from the 12th century, which describes the construction of the Church of St. Michael for a parish of unknown name. The most numerous medieval monuments in Ljubuški are the stećci. Around 600 stećci have been recorded at 45 sites in Ljubuški, with archaeologist Radoslav Dodig noting 617 in total. Ljubuški is also known for the medieval tower on Butorovice Hill above the city, declared a national cultural monument in 2004. Local legend attributes its construction to Duke Stjepan Vukčić Kosača, although it predates him. When the Ottomans conquered Ljubuški in 1472, they expanded the fortifications, built accommodations for troops, and constructed a mosque in 1558.
After Ottoman rule, the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy came to power. By the Congress of Berlin, Austria received consent to occupy Bosnia and Herzegovina. The army of Austrian General Jovanović entered Ljubuški on August 2, 1878, from the direction of Vrgorac. Austrian administration (1878–1918) marked a period of revival for Ljubuški in terms of infrastructure, agriculture, industry, culture, and administration. In 1884, culturally conscious Franciscans, led by Fra Anđelo Nuić, established a museum in Humac near Ljubuški, modeled after many European museums. The Humac Museum is also the oldest museum in Bosnia and Herzegovina. A rich library was also established at the Humac monastery, today housing over 20,000 titles from the 16th to 19th centuries, covering almost all areas of natural and social sciences.
During World War I (1914–1918), Ljubuški faced famine, poverty, the Spanish flu, and other hardships. Similar conditions continued during the Kingdom of Yugoslavia (1918–1941). From 1945 to 1990, under the communist and socialist system of the FNRJ/SFRJ, many Croats emigrated. Nonetheless, Ljubuški developed industrially and agriculturally, albeit at a slow pace. After the Dayton Peace Agreement, Ljubuški became part of Canton 8 within the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina, together with Grude, Posušje, and Široki Brijeg.
